December, 22nd, 2018

RIFFRAFF
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Part 1
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When #RafSimons was appointed to #CalvinKlein, the fashion press kept rimming it like it was a royal wedding yet labelling it continually an ”experiment” as if he was on an interim hiring rather that a confirmed designer for the brand with a disrupting artistic vision for #CK. Raf’s exit is the #Gucci counter effect: succeed instagram-tantaneously like #AlessandroMichele or die. Difference is, Raf is a true creative while @Gucci’s is a copy cat one going on Interview to smooth us. Michele’s coming out on plagiarism in this way is a form of intellectual fraud, as if a Picasso as a creative would recreate a Mondrian and claim it as his. It’s an honest way when he credits it but when you don’t and you are a creative at Gucci with generations looking at you to edge their taste with originality not with a fourre-tout of copy paste aesthetics then you are fooling us because you play on our ignorance of the canons of creativity used by other colleagues of yours masquerading by intellectual je ne sais-blablabla d’élite. The mass buys it because they are tricked by l’ignorance. Fashion editors of big outlets help fuel that ignorance too by blowing the winds where the marketing wants them too. Magazines need their advertising big dollars so they sacrifice « educating » our taste for this pseudo-creativity. In Art, which fashion tries so hard to have its status because of its complex of inferiority, its outlets mainly the Christies or other auctions houses would never ever act like that. If magazine acted on provenance and value they would have to raise the bar. Alas they don’t. I have been writing about all these issue in the last seven years with not having the same echo as the in-influencers or the insiders of futility. I denounce(d) Alessandro Michele’s creatives hijacks way back when he started. I am a critique. I have a moral obligation to inform my readers about the creativity at play – not to feel entitled to say this is good or bad because I like or not. That attitude is dismissive, snob and not honest. Same with Raf at CK. I worded my skepticism two years ago.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#NEWYORK #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at CALVIN KLEIN)
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