September, 28th, 2018

HERALDING HERETICS
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#CELINEBYHEDISLIMANE is the anti #CELINEBYPHOEBEPHILO. It’s a strategy. A strategy is a rupture. A rupture is a choice. Some will argue that it is embarrassing how #HediSlimane refuses to challenge himself by overhauling #Celine’s entire aesthetic. For them, the new Celine is basically Dior Homme meets Saint Laurent Paris without its panache. Pourquoi pas. But it will not bring Phoebe Philo’s back. Truth is, designers like Hedi and his follower Demna are money makers fostering fashion industry’s primary motive: profit, not art. Yet they are genius heretics in deconstructing fashion houses codes artistically. Even brands like Prada, Comme des Garçons, Underwear and newcomers like Jacquemus construct their art-not-fashion able clothing as a branding. Why? Fashion in all its layers is a product to be sold. Investors like @lvmh and @kering_official need an ROR: Return on Recency. Period. Now do you think the shoppers Hedi helped attract to Saint Laurent will jump ship to Celine? Oh yes ! Uproar sells. Rupture too. As for his #SS19 première, [not] all black, skinny silhouettes, Parisian wannabe rocker vibes – it’s all Hedi [super] Slim[ane]. Again Phoebephytes, this is a rupture. Maybe look for solace in #Loewe’s SS19? yet Loewe is Loewe in my carnet. Phoebe Philo’s color palettes, nonchalant textures floating into feminine effortlessness has become an all-black, skinny, imitation-rock, coke-looking haze rebels. Underground bling bling. It still has the cold power to it, reminding me that sense of luxe Tom Ford had back in the nineties at Gucci. Hedi’s first is edgy, sharp, divisive edgy. Still you can sense Celine’s craftsmanship. Les pinces. La sartoria. An air of the eighties nuits de Paris famous fêtes nocturnes. Juxtaposition des codes rocks Hedi et des codes couture Slimane en sibyllines subtilités. On se trompe de lui donner du “SLP 2.0”. Le Slimane a une vision depuis Dior Homme. Elle continue. Half of this collection was launching menswear. Karl Lagerfeld will loose 40 pounds to get into #Celimane’s anorexiques esthétiques. Eighteen years perfecting his perfectos. Slim or die.

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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Hôtel National des Invalides, Paris)
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