March, 5th, 2013

MODE À PARIS | AH1314 | HEDI SLIMANE embraced his muse LIZA THORN

We loved the audacity to branch out and reach out from the underground youth culture.

Is this AW1314 SAINT LAURENT the most couture-oh-my-god collection? No.

Nevertheless Shakespeare is still staged au théâtre non?

So yes, lots of the looks were déjà vu to us.

To you.

Grunge? Done.

Rock? Done.

La Rebelle? Done.

Re done.

Still, we loved the AH1314 because lots of young women today actually own a black leather jacket that’s really similar to the long sleeved one (en coat) in the picture. Or a mesh dress. And that’s the point, they already own a perfec to-manteau & a mesh like it. These all (jetset-priced) pieces the bottle blondes of the “California Grunge” would dream to .. re-wear.Re-buy. Readily.

Why?

Because it’s a hippie de luxe ready to wear collection.

Because it’s an aspiration to be a Cruella Catroux meets Transformer-era Lou Reed.

Because it’s a disenchanted global spleen-ed world these nerd-as live in and dress in accordingly.

“Hedi’s sweet and generous, and working with him is very organic,” Ms. Thorn was smitten. Starred.

So if you are not a disheveled bleached haired with a pale face and a teeth spaced apart and eyebrows also bleached to near invisibility, you are on the Bon Chic Bon Genre Gossip Girl-a far from an original, untraditional beauté.

This laideur remains a legitimate aesthetic and a statement by Slimane. Ugliness à la Gainsbourg. A more attractive version of the Warhol’s Andrea Feldman, a young woman exuding THE utter confidence that Hedi Slimane wants to dress.

Un choix que nous applaudissons. Hédi y rejoint d’ailleurs feu Yves Saint Laurent en faisant de sa quête créative, un élément de contestation vis à vis des canons de l’industrie de la mode.

Comme YSL avec les beatniks dans les années 1970, le franco-tunisien Slimane cultive, depuis la Rive Gauche chic et depuis la Hollywood new catwalk, une couture mâchée du savoir-être-rebelle.

SAINT LAURENT oblige.