January, 27th, 2014

PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | SAD WALLI TALKS TO MODE DIPLOMATIQUE

“Sad Walli is an intimate novel reinterpreting historical architecture in an idyllic place” explained the designer right after the show. When I first met him I’ve been impressed by his genuine and authentic passion for his work, particularly that day I asked him to explain what SAD WALLI meant to him.

The idea of conceiving an entire line as a journey through memory and past, not just as a simple book could do, but imaging a palais in which are intersected centuries, styles, aesthetics and cultures was such an embrace. While I was listening, I’ve instantly felt as those years when I used to spend hours devouring ancient myth books and epic novels, terribly fascinated by Greek tragedies.

SAD WALLI comes from the the creative and volcanic mind of Walidi Saidi, Paris based designer whose roots lie in Algeria (such a good start for a fashion designer, as Yves Saint Laurent docet). He minds his collections on the most diverse aesthetic codes thanks to his mélange culturel. The minimal and geometric silhouettes owe their construction to several and mostly ancient architectural elements, re-contextualized by a meticulous study on modern fabrics and avant-garde patterns. The result are beautifully clean-cut tailored garments, refined by sophisticated fluidity.

Walid literally builds his brand as a novel, a medieval tale, filled with cultural references and visual inspirations, mainly influenced by architectural studies. Chapter by chapter we are invited to discover his palace’s interior. That’s why each collection is effectively called Room.

“Church“ is the main gate to the following seasons. This FW 2013 first launched collection is an ode to the French architecture, particularly focused on the complexity of French Gothic architecture. Flow cuts and flexible pieces, a strong chemistry between contemporary shapes and noble fabrics, that’s how SAD WALLI defined his style.

For the SS 2014 we get into Room I, directly inspired by the greatness of mitteleuropean medieval architecture. The season interweaves the melancholic pureness of the tension toward the divine to the cathedrals’ games of shadows, creating a perfect alchemy between history and modernity.

This January he launched his third collection during the Men’s Saison Masculine 2014/15 in Paris. Room II ENDERS gazes at the Middle East Islamic cultures, focusing on modular structures and the Arabian mosques’ walls enriched by precious mosaics.

Decoration certainly is the story main-character. In primis the designer embellished the sophisticated digital printed silk scarves, which caught the attention warn as long and delicate sleeves. Then he manipulated arabian featuring patterns to adorn the warrior-like long zipped coat as well as t-shirts backsides, mostly overlaid on knee-length tunics, one of his trademarks. Sleeveless blazers emboldened by big and square shoulders and collarless shirts enriched by impeccably designed pleats completed the collection. Walid’s bold decontextualization totally defined a cutting-edge subtle elegance.

Dandified tailoring codes are tipped over this season. Such a shame, SAD WALLI remains a menswear designer. I am debating to dress like a man once for good.

Chapter after chapter.

BIANCA DEMARIA

Lensed by Philippe-Olivier Amany