September, 28th, 2014

PARIS | PRINTEMPS ÉTÉ 2015 | DIOR BY RAF SIMONS
“NO CLASSY WOMAN IS A SLAVE TO FASHION.” CHRISTIAN DIOR

Carla Sozzani and Azzedine Alaïa are skeptical spectators of Raf Simons’ Spring Summer 2015 – I still believe, because I wrote so at the nomination of the Belgian modéliste – that Dior – Raf Simons is a mismatch. This collection, décallée, is once again disappointing and is frankly a parade de costumes. With my utmost respect to Monsieur Simons, I feel his editorial creative curve is more about history costume than couture. His take on revitalizing the heritage of the house is proving difficult and dangerous. Today, only the power of the name-fame is carrying the label, not his creative director.

If Galliano identified his love of theatre and femininity as central to his creations – “my role is to seduce” – and credited Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers as an influence, we can’t seem to understand nor to foresee Raf Simons creative sensibilities. But then had Monsieur Alaïa accepted Bernard Arnault and Sidney Toledano offer to take the reign of the maison, it would have been another aventure. The fashion press would not be trying to sell it – and let’s drop the hypocrisy masks here – as nouvelle fraîcheur: fashion editors of all major publications are scared, terrified to write openly, loudly and rightfully about the fact that Raf Simons ne décolle pas et ne décollera probablement pas chez Dior – because they are are billions in play, because Dior is the luxury leader in Arnault’s fleet with Louis Vuitton, because LVMH will “retaliate” in moving its advertising placements from their magazines.

So here we are, all in, incestuously trying to convince the readers that 18th century is the new 2015 .. I reacted publicly to the most authoritative plume of all, Madame Menkes, our doyenne, on her very very very diplomatic critique in Vogue. She wrote, in conclusion: “For turning couture fantasy into luxury shop-floor reality, the show could not be faulted. But I still missed that surge of imagination [allow me please: tout court] that a few months ago had taken the haute couture into another, magical place.” . To which, I replied: “Please dear Suzy Menkes, the surge of imagination will never happen and you know that. Young women will not dress and travel in these 18th century’s 2015. Since his tenure, Monsieur Simons is exploring costume not couture. He would have done a terrific job au Palais Galliera not chez #Dior.”

Without the gift of looking forward, even the most wonderful fashion houses can grow stale. The condition of perfection is idleness: the aim of perfection is youth. So here again, je persiste et signe: I would have betted on a Maxime Simoens encadré by Bill Gaytten to transition smoothly the John Galliano era.

It is about time a French couturier conquers back LE bastion, galvaudé, de la mode française ..

Photos by GORUNWAY.COM | L’ÉDITOR