February, 3rd, 2016

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THE AUDACITY OF HAUTE
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#StefanoPilati exits @Zegnaofficial to enter .. @Dior? Possible. Repeating the #YSL experience is a safe, but boring bet aesthetically. There is a momentum, un air du temps, to seize, hastily. Not only #menswear is living an identity crisis, misbranded designers aesthetics clashed with dna classics @Brioni_official or @Berluti. It was only a matter of time – 3 seasons by average – for these collaborations to show their limits. Fashion is about a fit between a designer and the editorial curve of a house. Womenswear too is living a misbranding that is amplified comes couture season. So If @LVMH wants to be audacious, in the way @PacoRabanne tapped the talented @JulienDossena to renew its identity – @MARTINLAMOTHEofficial should be strongly considered for #Dior. #ElenaMartin is my choice. Hailing from #Barcelona, the #StMartins MA graduate and ex-assistant @VivienneWestwoodofficial + @WorldMcQueen is truly a niña prodigio of designs, prints, and creative clothing with the caveat, so much needed to revive the #ChristianDior heydays, of being skilled in the craft of the #vanguard not the bling bling luxury of the prêt-à-haute and the couture-à-porter like what we saw in this #SS16. It was an uninspired #couture season, where the recherché was a cliché of the passé. Vanguard is what #Hautecouture is about. Adacious always.

Now someone working for Monsieur #Arnault has to get out there and look for one of the most talented designer of the #Spanish #fashion scene @MBFWMadrid. She is drifting between #London, #Madrid and #Mexico. Find her. Sit her down with the boss. Let her sketch. Hire her.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#NEWYORK #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Nobu Fifty Seven)