March, 11th, 2016

WHAT IS FASHION ?
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#Paris gave us panache. Look at the picture again. Sporty sole and boarded leather. This is what fashion has become in 2016: blending copycats being everything to everyone. Para doxically, @IrisvanHerpen is #lucid about the crise of the rapport between culture and couture. The pas-de-deux between progress and prowess has been left trailing to hip wellness and hop streetwear. The aesthetic result is appalling: a fourre- tout of mainstreamism. Forget purism. Forget progress.

I am a purist, not a nostalgic, about THE #silhouette of women. Paris, Lon don, New York and Milan, failed to achieve a new silhouette for women. Fashion faded its preeminence. Millennials are growing tired of invasive oneness bling-clings. While bring it at #Vetements, #DemnaGvasalia is far from leading @Balenciaga in to a new silhouette. Experimental, in his case, is marginal not Margiela-esque. His #AW16 felt #PringleofScotl and. If taking a risk with a heritage is a coup, as hailed by the Conde’s, WWD and Hearst’s edi tors, whom left the art of critique for obnoxious entitlement, #HediSlimane should have been praised. He wasn’t. Demna was. Cherchez l’horreur.

Meanwhile, the Japanese (Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Anrealage, Yohji Yamamo to, Atsuro Tayama, Junko Shimada and extraordinaires Issey Miyake + Undercover) amplified gesture and extravaganza. The French (Sonia Rikyel’s Julie Libran, Agnès b, Hermès’ Vanhee-Cybulski, Véronique Branquinho, Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena, Cédric Charlier, Lemaire, Anthony Vacarello, Dior, Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci’s Henri, Ghesquière’s Louis Vuit ton and Jacquemus) embodied the substantifique Parisienne. The Brits (Céline, Loewe, Mugler, Stella McCartney, and Vivienne Westwood) kept the boho temperament rebelliously nonchalant. The Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Iris Van Herpen, Haider Ackermann, Manish Arora, and Valentino [just] did themselves. To shape fashion does not mean establishing the clothing as a self-referential object that takes on its stylistic character through its sheer playfulness, but rather res toring it with a new function. Now, if ever, is a time to go deeper.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Hôtel Gault)