September, 26th, 2017

IT’S A SPLEEN
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‪@Dior. @YSL. It’s a spleen. I believe both houses #Dior & #SaintLaurent do not make us dream anymore. ”It’s a spleen, c’est laid.. Zizi et Niki ne porteraient pas mais vous allez nous les encenser.. @LVMH @Kering_official (placements publicitaires) oblige … Mrs. Chiuri & Mr. Vaccarello are talented but they don’t master the dna creativeness of the houses they lead .. ces maisons devenues labora toires au lieu de .. hauts lieux.”. Wrote this on @VirginieMouzat’s instagram wall as I have seen all the edi torial ”élite” being ecstatic of both collections with the whole fashion edi torial system that does not care, to pause, critique and reflect on what fashion should be the way Dame Vreel and did. I wish she would write today. Designers, upcoming and long runners, readers, and insiders reach out – on off mode – to read more critical reviews (not the @BOF subtle ones that @TimBlanks masterfully keep politically correct) ”because fashion should be about improving and making innovative designs. if every (big) designer’s work is reviewed as great nothing will evolve.” La mode est comme un script. Elle a besoin du bon casting (so it’s not a matter of race, color or sex for the leading role of the creative direc tor) et Dior depuis 4 ans caste le mauvais heros – ce n’est pas facile de trouver aussi le directeur artistique mais l’establishment i.e. fashion executives are not scouting well or and it’s up for debate they are not explaining/communicating enough why they are finding it hard casting the right designer. Saint Laurent after the departure of #HediSlimane is in a cul de sac créatif. Not easy. Lots of millions in play. Who knows maybe I am so negative as the reviews of early Ricar do Tisci @riccar dotisci17 in his débuts @Givenchyofficial ? but tonight, it’s a spleen. It’s a spleen.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE