February, 27th, 2019

BAROQUE BESPOK

BAROQUE BESPOKE
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L’esthétique du design de #ReiKawakubo, fortement féminisée, libère le vêtement des conventions de style acceptées. Les détails de conception «féminins» classiques sont déformés et réinventés sous forme de vêtements complets. Son approche du volume et de la proportion réfute l’adaptation stricte et les notions de flatterie. En effet, Kawakubo poursuit toutes sortes d’asymétries et d’irrégularités. Cependant, au-delà de tout, l’œuvre de Kawakubo incarne la perspective selon laquelle la mode est une forme d’art qui doit être provocante et dérangeante, toujours progressive et toujours expérimentale. La #AW19 de #DriesVanNoten interpella mon imaginaire: une collection-clin d’oeil autant Flamand baroque que British bespoke à l’Ikebana japonais de la collection Comme des Garçons de … l’Automne 2012? Dries. Rei. Rei. Dries. Mode combat! Je me délecte de ce dialogue. In the Renaissance, the flowers were rare and very expensive. Each painting taking months, the artist often had several seasons to paint on the same canvas. Today @palaisdetokyo, Dries #VanNoten was inspired by this freedom. He mixed colors – roses, yellows, reds, oranges – without being afraid to add a touch of blue … Delft, of course (Delphinium, hydrangea) And one mixes big noble flowers (peonies, chrysanthemums, poppies, tulips), branches loaded with petals, and modest grasses. As in the Flemish paintings, #DVN staged high stems in the center of dresses, but also on the shoulders and the hips, to create several “focus”, as in any work of art. And he also hailed the edges of the style: branches or bunch of petals that stroll along the sleeves or thighs. For the Flemish painters, who celebrated “imperfection”, the flowers were beautiful also from behind or in profile, in a joyous disorder. And @DriesVanNoten sense of brevity – and the beauty – of life was infused in his #womenswear.able-paintings by a masculine sartorial nonchalance – belles épaules à la #ClaudeMontana – synonymous with panache, protection, and cozy luxury. Loudly discreet for ladies and demoiselles of taste. Baroque. Bespoke.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PARIS #PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Palais de Tokyo)
https://www.instagram.com/modediplomatique/p/BuZIXcehtQx/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1l1knvilrjqkl