July, 7th, 2012

Canada’s STEVEN TAI | Mercedes-Benz Berlin SS 2013

STEVEN TAI has recently completed a cursus at Central Saint Martin, whilst at the same time working as an assistant for Bless, Vik tor & Rolf and Stella McCartney. However, nothing predestined this young man towards such a brilliant path within fashion, prior to his daring to cross the threshold of the famous school in 2007. Having never touched a sewing machine, nor a needle, not knowing in the least how to distinguish between a jersey and a cot ton fabric, he even takes some additional couture tailoring courses at Lon don College of Fashion to improve himself. He under took a total change of direction, due to the influence of a passion that was as sudden as it was irrevocable. His collection is a riddle. If my first is a sequence of artisanal actions: like those undertaken by a binder; my second is a poetic image: fabrics which have been patiently cut-out and laid out in straps; and my third is a play on words, on nerds compared with “worms”, little animals which “devour”, turning dictionaries and encyclopaedias to shreds. Then my whole offers unexpected silhouettes which distil a good measure of humour. Taking as its source a very classical wardrobe – classic but ton collared blouses – dis torts certain elements which thus become strange and sculptural appendages. He employs lacerations and pleats with great mastery, modifying our perception of figures which are voluntarily ungainly. He completes his outfits for this new breed of intellectuals with a variety of typical accessories: a stack of books, large framed glasses, etc. All the rage for spending a day in the library.