October, 4th, 2016

GOOD #BDSM
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With hindsight, @BoF @VogueMagazine @TelegraphFashion @ELLEFR @NYTIMESFashion @ManRepeller @Fashionista_com @DazedFashion @Refinery29 and @WWD can be seen to have been crucially misunderstood: they are both realities in “abstract journalism” that, like Duchamp’s art erring, institutionalize very powerfully as endlessly the reluctancy of fully committing themselves. Had my esteemed colleague @TimBlanks omitted on purpose “#dazzling” to “Demna Gvasalia’s second women’s collection for #Balenciaga explored the parallels between couture and fetishism — to dazzling effect.”, I would have not felt compelled to ask: what if gazar was invented in 1957 and spandex in 1958? would @Balenciaga #SS17 have had a better luck than an abstract latex over couture #Tati greets #Montana because both coincidently came to life in 1958? I don’t deny M. Gvasalia his right to explore “the discourse of fashion”. He has @Vetements_official for that. I question, heck I deny, his right to blend the DNA of a house its founder closed it when he knew it was not blend able with prêt-à-porter for his own re-contextualization. Bad BDSM. Fetish can be couture. @AtsukoKudolatex’s exploration of love through the codes of fetish always feel “fresh and complex. Innovation is no mean feat when you’re working within the confines of the bedroom, but #Atsuko managed to offering an empowering way modern women want to present themselves, both sartorially and sexually.”. Good BDSM. I wrote it 3 years ago. I don’t like being a stenographer. I don’t like writing gossip. I had a twitter exchange this week with @ChristinaBinkley glamourizing how #MariaGraziaChiuri idea of the Moderne has to be dressed like a fencer, as if the wearability along its feminism @Dior were not to blame for the quality of my journalism denouncing so. @KarlLagerfeld @Chanelofficial has mastered it. #DataCenterChanel diverted, once again, our attention from the clothes to the set. Stage over style. M. #Lagerfeld has been #NetFlix.ing fashion before @Netflix. I don’t know if there’s ever been a more important time to be fierce at what I write about fashion.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Le Bar Long – Royal Monceau)