January, 26th, 2016

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THE SCARLET CADETTE
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Reminiscing the glorious passé Napoléonien, @Bouchra.Jarrar carried us to a marshall cadette’s earlier today as Saint-Cyr Army-models unfurled her #ss16 #Hautecouture. A single-sensual-file troop paraded swiftly in seaworthy marine-and-white coats with gold-braid buttons over satin pajamas, classic tweeds and dresses tailored in unexpected fur. The military and biker tailoring suggested a long tradition of adapting men’s uniforms for women and subtle references to #Chanel with her braid and gold buttons, and Yves #SaintLaurent with his naval pea jacket. For the record, it started and went high fashion with #Mainbocher, the West #Chicago designer, who pioneered a collection of Marine dashing uniforms in 1942 with aesthetics still obvious among us. #BouchraJarrar, in her long self tradition of honing the quality of #discipline and #dedication to the #functional and #suitable, prior with @NicolasGhesquiere @Balenciaga, then with #ChristianLacroix, has also celebrated the wonderful-and-fresh of womanhood in her everyday life combat, rather than simply in supporting role tinged with the romance of nonchalance. Her severe looks contrasted with the drapés, graphic mixes and see-trough’s. Her women prowled felinity in tidying off every bright and right of their curves. Fashion is a proposition. Balance too.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Palais Galliera)