July, 6th, 2015

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LE SOLEIL EST LA LUNE DES SYLPHIDES
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Since 1935, @ElsaSchiaparelli had been presenting thematic collections at her salon, theatrically staged with dramatic lighting, backdrops and music. The front rows were filled with royalty, politicians, artists, film stars who pushed towards the models “as if it were rush hour.” The sparkling and boldly decorated evening jackets in velvet, metallic thread, glass beads and rhines tones, embroidered by #MaisonLesage brook part of Schiaparelli’s #Zodiac collection from Winter 1938/39 which was one of her most imaginative collections. Clothing in this collection was decorated with the stars, the moon and the sun and horoscopes were printed on coats and jackets that fore told the future. The proportions of the clothing were built upon the strictest measurements based on #Euclid’s elements, a treatise on geometry. As a young child, #Elsa’s Uncle Giovanni had pointed out that the beauty marks on his niece’s face formed the shape of the Big Dipper so she a dopted the constellation as her good luck charm. Other elaborate trousers were decorated with the signs of the zodiac and the planets, woven with gold and silver embroidery. #Schiaparelli’s symbol, the big dipper, is on the left shoulder. It would have been worn over a simple gown forming an “evening suit.” The Evening Suit, which was popularized by #Schiaparelli, became a st andard among fashionably dressed women. For a first #Hautecouture and his #first as a designer, @Bertr andGuyon mirrored the canons of #ElsaSchiaparelli in building upon art from the past as well as reacting against it. “La lune est le soleil des statues” wrote dear friend and writer #JeanCocteau on the #AW3839. Le soleil est la lune des sylphides chez #Bertr andGuyon. Ask @Farida_Khelfa ?? ..
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE