June, 8th, 2015

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LAMBIE DE LIBRAN
@SONIARYKIEL | #RESORT2016

@JuliedeLibran’s work chez #Rykiel is subversive, but playfully so. The subversion is not in the blending of aesthetic categories; artists have been crossing those lines since the days of #NeoDada. Instead, her work surprises in its blithe, affectionate mix of seventies pop culture and formalist aesthetics. The latter were fostered @Prada, where she started in 1998 to work with #MiucciaPrada. Nevertheless, it was in #Milan with Gianfranco Ferré (early 1990s), in #Paris with @JCDeCastelbajac and back again in Milan, assisting Gianni @Versace that her life as a designer was shaped. Chez #Rykiel, she asserts (since May 2014) the seductive 1970s gamine, of which she belongs as a woman herself. Earlier, her Spring Summer 2016 Pre-Collection – showcased @LadureeUS #Soho -, found its way in to the #Beatnik era. She layered multicoloured dresses and tops in dizzying stripes that zigzagged round the curves. The stripes (sur fond #noir) are #SoniaRykiel’s visual signature, so it was as natural as artful to dedicate this #Resort16 to the idea of cool & classy. Artistically, Julie was inspired by #JimLambie’s #pop work, with his incarnations of architectural coloured threads or strips in #art staged-staircases or #bamboo sticks sculptures – The #Glasgow Dj turned artist was himself a devotee of #French conceptual artist André Cadere. But, I felt that she infused, beyond Lambie’s, sums of her own modéliste influences: the joie de colorier+ of #DeCastelbajac’s, the preziosità of #Prada, and a zest of #GianniVersace’s black and white power couture. While she may be alluding to the boho-bourgeoise of Café de Flore (Madame #Rykiel always love to sketch at her table, second floor), #JuliedeLibran brought it up- to-2016: for the women of her and @Josephine_Letu tour generations. Her wardrobe is one of the few places left where psychédelique self-exaltation is still possible for a New Yorkaise and a Parisienne. Un régal.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#NEWYORK #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Ladurée Soho)