March, 11th, 2015

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UNDERCOVER PROPINQUITY
#MODEDIPLOMATIQUE #FW15 PICK

French philosopher #JacquesDerrida was the tutelary spirit behind #Deconstruction, an approach which rigorously pursues the meaning of a text to the point of undoing the oppositions on which it is apparently founded. Derrida would suggest that designers such #JunTakahashi would reveal the various ways in which either joy or pain, beauty or ugliness, freedom or dependence in fashion are in contradiction with themselves. It follows that fashion, the traditional host of beauty, joy and freedom must be shown to be riddled with .. ugliness, pain and dependence – always there at its core. But what if fashion is no longer driven by beauty? #UmbertoEco advocates, “beauty could now express itself by making opposites converge, so that ugliness was no longer the negation of beauty, but its other face”. Well, imagine a wardrobe of contemporary beauty: @VivienneWestwoodofficial and Malcolm McLaren’s punk-inspired “Let it Rock” top (1974); @CommedesGarconsofficial’s “Hole” sweater (1981-2); #KosukeTsumura’s “Final Home” coat, designed to incorporate screwed up newspaper (1994); Martin @MaisonMargiela’s coats and dresses covered in mould, tops crafted out of army surplus gear and shoes covered in mud (1997–2006); an outfit from @JGalliano’s “Hobo” collection (2000) and the @LouisVuitton shoulder bag resembling a garbage bin liner (2010). You may add to this deconstructed display this year’s @Undercover_Lab cheap plastic transparent mask along with a yellow crewneck, a loose ballonnée baseball jacket, a giant sanctimonious Renaissance portraits printed shirts and skirts in chiaroscuro (reminiscing #Alexander.@WorldMcQueen 2006); and for evening, the ever-must: a crème tuxedo with its blood-broken glasses jested on the shoulders (2015). See #JunTakahashi does not try to solve the problem, rather he calls us to question the identities of each beauty and ugliness to be two possible (#Undercover) options to be experienced rebelliously without fear. That’s why #HURT is, by far, our favorite #FW15 of the season.
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PARIS #PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Bibliothèque François Mitterrand)