November, 9th, 2014

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.Aparté.

#SoniaDelaunay 1920’s
@JPGaultierofficial
@JCDCastelbajac
@AquilanoRimondi_official #FW1415

Sonia described her textiles as mere “exercises in color” that informed her true passion, painting. But her work in fashion and the applied arts, via her Maison #Delaunay design atelier, may well be her broader legacy. Such is the argument of “Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay,” an exhibition co-curated by Matilda McQuaid and Susan Brown at the Cooper-Hewitt, where it is on view this spring. Presenting a lush collection of some 250 screen-printed, h and-sewn and embroidered patterns, the show contextualizes Sonia-the-Designer with a h andful of pho tographs, drawings and ephemera that illustrate the trajec tory of her creative beginnings. Née Sarah Stern, the daughter of Jewish laborers, Delaunay was a dopted by a wealthy Russian uncle at the age of five and raised in St. Petersburg among a multicultural elite. She excelled artistically and was sent to Paris to study, where she found herself consorting with a vibrant artistic community including Dadaist writer Tristan #Tzara and French poet #Blaise Cendrars, both of whom would later become her collabora tors. Even before she took up with Robert Delaunay in 1910, Sonia had experimented with “simultaneity,” a notion put forth by French chemist Michel-Eugène Chevreul in his seminal 1839 work The Principles of Harmony and Contrast of Colors. As a description of the sensation of movement produced by juxtaposing starkly contrasting colors, the idea fascinated the young artist and would continually inflect her work, eventually becoming something of a #fashion craze. Masculine lines have steadily infiltrated mainstream womenswear style, influencing everything from tailored pants to oversized sweaters and suiting details to overcoats with intarsia twists. When applied to tailored woolen coats the results are both classic and sophisticated. This season designers are also referencing 1980’s minimalism, early 1990’s proportions and long coat styles of the 1920’s providing dramatic simultanés between Art Nouveau flair and Arts appliqués in to a timeless unity..

#PARIS #MILAN #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE