September, 27th, 2016

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À ANTHONY,
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#SaintLaurent veramente imbarazzante mi sono incazzato solo a vederla sfilare. #AnthonyVaccarello conjugue #YSL en #SaintLaurent. À l’imparfait du subjonctif. Fourre-tout #Hedi et #Yves qui, eux suggéraient. Et ne me parlez pas de diversité, d’altitude et d’attitude. Mélanges des genres. Mélanges des marques. Hésitations couture. Mélanges des goûts. Paradoxalement, il y a plus de sophistication Yves Saint Laurent chez la maison Anthony Vaccarello (#SS16 à droite) que le contraire (The #YSLSaint Laurent #SS17). Anthony, with all due respect, you are way more gifted for your own griffe of “girls who don’t give a fuck” than healthily disrespecting Monsieur Saint Laurent et Monsieur Slimane legacies: Aristocracy, either be it haute couture or rock-punk. Attitude, the one you sew-wasted elegantly in your eponymous label, is a résultante in their artistry not the compas. You start with attitude. They finish with attitude. So as much as your aesthetic ink is the closest to both seams of your collègues, I regret to write it is not compatible with their heritages. For now. For now. Why? first, you sticked to the imagery, frankly diluting the edge of Hedi. Mind you, replicating #Slimane’s #Mapplethorpe andro-photogenetic oeil is challenging for great talents like @InezandVinoodh, but you are the designer (with #Kering commercial blessing) who directed the duo into it. I believe it is wrong. The cue is off. Art is struggling. Then today the collection. Well. Let’s. Be. Honest. Embarrassing was this première. I hope and this is never an easy courage for your creativity to disrupt without being disrupted, heritage wise, for the next one. I am not a purist. I am a realist. Best of lust + luck #Anthony !
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#PARIS #PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE